Dumbarton Oaks Microsite

Fragment

 
Accession numberBZ.1933.21
Attribution and Date
Indian subcontinent, second half of the 10th–15th c.
Measurements

H. 24.8 cm × W. 11.8 cm (9 3/4 × 4 5/8 in.)

Technique and Material

Cotton; hand-painted

Acquisition history

Tano Collection, Cairo; Robert Woods and Mildred Barnes Bliss, purchase (through Frances Morris), 1932; Dumbarton Oaks Research Library and Collection, Washington, DC, 1940.

Materials

Warp: Cotton, single spun Z-direction, 21–24/cm. Selvage seems to have 6 ends, which are set close together.

Weft: Cotton, single spun Z-direction, 23–24/cm

Colors: Undyed cotton (yellowed with age and mordants), brick red, dark blue, a slightly lighter blue

 

Technique

Plain weave; hand-painted resist, mordant-dyed red and resist-dyed blue in two shades

 

Condition

Small holes within the fragment as well as on one of the edges could have been caused due to deterioration. The dealer may have trimmed some edges to neaten it.

 

Conservation history

Stabilized and stitched to framed backing fabric (2003)

—Karthika Audinet, May 2019

 
Accession numberBZ.1933.21
Attribution and Date
Indian subcontinent, second half of the 10th–15th c.
Measurements

H. 24.8 cm × W. 11.8 cm (9 3/4 × 4 5/8 in.)

Technique and Material

Cotton; hand-painted

Acquisition history

Tano Collection, Cairo; Robert Woods and Mildred Barnes Bliss, purchase (through Frances Morris), 1932; Dumbarton Oaks Research Library and Collection, Washington, DC, 1940.

This fragment consists of a quarter segment of a large circle decorated with concentric circles and lines of dots, and another segment of a large circular motif decorated with petal-shaped forms and dots. A resist that defines the design seems to have been painted on rapidly, resulting in white dots that mingle or overlap. These concentric circles appear to be made of uneven lines but are actually closely placed dots. Twirling vines with fruit made up of small dots fill the background. Two shades of blue can be observed in some dots on the fragment: it thus appears that after a preliminary dyeing of blue, resist was applied and the fabric was dyed a second time to obtain a darker shade of blue. The fabric is woven with equal density of warp and weft threads.

This fragment belongs to a recurrent theme of stylized trees with concentric borders of dots and lines with backgrounds of twirling vines and dotted fruit. We see variations of this theme in several fragments. A piece at the Textile Museum in Washington, DC,Washington, DC, The Textile Museum, 6.253: K. Audinet, “Fustat Fragments: Indian Textiles in the Dumbarton Oaks Byzantine Collection,” Textiles Asia 10, no. 3 (2019): 28. and a fragment belonging to PfisterParis, Les Editions d’art et d’histoire, R.P.I. 147: R. Pfister, Les toiles imprimées de Fostat et l’Hindoustan (Paris, 1938), plate IXc. This fragment may be in the Vatican Library along with the rest of Pfister’s collection. It was published by Pfister with his own accession code. show similar treatment of tree motifs, surrounded by vines with dotted fruit. Two fabrics in the Ashmolean Museum, Oxford University, have trees and fruit in this type of pattern.Oxford, Ashmolean Museum, EA1990.1040, http://jameelcentre.ashmolean.org/object/EA1990.1040; EA1990.1129, http://jameelcentre.ashmolean.org/object/EA1990.1129. Another fragment in the same collection may be a precursor to this tree design and has been radiocarbon-dated to 1450 CE ± 50.Ashmolean Museum, EA1990.1123, http://jameelcentre.ashmolean.org/object/EA1990.1123.

—Karthika Audinet, May 2019

 

Notes

Accession numberBZ.1933.21
Attribution and Date
Indian subcontinent, second half of the 10th–15th c.
Measurements

H. 24.8 cm × W. 11.8 cm (9 3/4 × 4 5/8 in.)

Technique and Material

Cotton; hand-painted

Acquisition history

Tano Collection, Cairo; Robert Woods and Mildred Barnes Bliss, purchase (through Frances Morris), 1932; Dumbarton Oaks Research Library and Collection, Washington, DC, 1940.

F. Morris, “Catalogue of Textile Fabrics, The Dumbarton Oaks Research Library and Collection” (unpublished catalogue, Washington, DC, 1940), 425.

Accession numberBZ.1933.21
Attribution and Date
Indian subcontinent, second half of the 10th–15th c.
Measurements

H. 24.8 cm × W. 11.8 cm (9 3/4 × 4 5/8 in.)

Technique and Material

Cotton; hand-painted

Acquisition history

Tano Collection, Cairo; Robert Woods and Mildred Barnes Bliss, purchase (through Frances Morris), 1932; Dumbarton Oaks Research Library and Collection, Washington, DC, 1940.