Dumbarton Oaks Microsite

Fragment of a Hanging with Human Figure

 
Accession numberBZ.1953.2.101a–b
Attribution and Date
Egypt, ca. 4th–6th c.
Measurements

H. (warp) 33.5 cm × W. (weft) 15.5 cm (13 3/16 × 6 1/8 in.)

Technique and Material

Weft-loop pile in polychrome wool and undyed linen

Acquisition history

Crocker Collection, San Francisco, Mrs. William Henry Crocker (Ethel Willard Sperry Crocker, 1861–1934); Loaned to the San Francisco Museum of Art until 1953; Gift of Mrs. Andre de Limur (Ethel Mary Crocker de Limur, 1891–1964), Washington, DC, in 1953; Dumbarton Oaks Research Library and Collection, Washington, DC.

Detailed dimensions

Height: 33.5 cm (warp direction)

Width: 15.5 cm (weft direction)

A: Head: 11.0 cm × 8.5 cm

B: Body: 23.5 cm × 15.5 cm

 

Materials

Composition: Weft-loop pile

Warp: Linen, single spun S-direction (S), 26–28/cm; undyed

Weft: Wool, 2 single spun S-direction (S), 4–6 loops/cm, length ca. 03.–0.5 cm; red, pink, blue, purple, beige (undyed?)

 

Ground: Plain weave

Warp: Linen, single spun S-direction (S), 26–28/cm; undyed

Weft: Linen, single spun S-direction (S), 6–8/cm; undyed

 

Technique

Weft-loop pile on plain-weave ground

 

Discussion

These two fragments were once part of a larger composition. They were woven in weft-loop pile in polychrome wool on a plain-weave ground in undyed linen. To create the design, the pile yarn was placed in an open plain-weave shed. At every second or third warp, the weft was pulled to the surface of the weaving and loops were formed. To hold the completed row of loops in place, three linen wefts were inserted in the same pile row. Each pile row is followed by a self-band consisting of three linen wefts, and two or three linen wefts in plain-weave. The final fabric resulted in a relatively coarse weave structure with four to six loops per centimeter. The textile’s composition would have been set against a field of a natural-colored plain weave ground (now missing), which is representative for these weavings.

Wrapped weft brocading in red, pink, purplish, and deep blue wool shapes the facial features. This technique involves carrying a thread over a group of warps and then passing it in the other direction under part of the group. It was used to create outlines in horizontal, vertical, and diagonal directions.

 

Condition

This composition comprises two fragments, a head (A) and a lower section (B), that looks like a clothed body (see further discussion in art historical section). There is a small fragment along the bottom edge of fragment B, which is detached. The edges of the pieces are fragile. The looped pile is abraded and worn, approximately measuring three to five millimeters in length. The facial features are still fairly well preserved. There is wool weft loss in large areas of fragment B, exposing the plain-weave linen ground. The color preservation is good.

Based on iconography, style, weave structure, the materials used, warp and weft count, and color palette, it is possible that these fragments can be associated with BZ.1953.2.102.

 

Conservation history

Mounted and framed with BZ.1953.2.102 (2004)

 

—Kathrin Colburn, August 2019

 
Accession numberBZ.1953.2.101a–b
Attribution and Date
Egypt, ca. 4th–6th c.
Measurements

H. (warp) 33.5 cm × W. (weft) 15.5 cm (13 3/16 × 6 1/8 in.)

Technique and Material

Weft-loop pile in polychrome wool and undyed linen

Acquisition history

Crocker Collection, San Francisco, Mrs. William Henry Crocker (Ethel Willard Sperry Crocker, 1861–1934); Loaned to the San Francisco Museum of Art until 1953; Gift of Mrs. Andre de Limur (Ethel Mary Crocker de Limur, 1891–1964), Washington, DC, in 1953; Dumbarton Oaks Research Library and Collection, Washington, DC.

Washington, DC, The George Washington University Museum and The Textile Museum, Woven Interiors: Furnishing Early Medieval Egypt, August 31, 2019—January 5, 2020.

Accession numberBZ.1953.2.101a–b
Attribution and Date
Egypt, ca. 4th–6th c.
Measurements

H. (warp) 33.5 cm × W. (weft) 15.5 cm (13 3/16 × 6 1/8 in.)

Technique and Material

Weft-loop pile in polychrome wool and undyed linen

Acquisition history

Crocker Collection, San Francisco, Mrs. William Henry Crocker (Ethel Willard Sperry Crocker, 1861–1934); Loaned to the San Francisco Museum of Art until 1953; Gift of Mrs. Andre de Limur (Ethel Mary Crocker de Limur, 1891–1964), Washington, DC, in 1953; Dumbarton Oaks Research Library and Collection, Washington, DC.

D. Thompson, “Catalogue of Textiles in the Dumbarton Oaks Collection” (unpublished catalogue, Washington, DC, 1976), no. 28.

G. Bühl, S. Krody, E. Dospěl Williams, Woven Interiors: Furnishing Early Medieval Egypt (Washington, DC, 2019), 92-3, no. 35.

Accession numberBZ.1953.2.101a–b
Attribution and Date
Egypt, ca. 4th–6th c.
Measurements

H. (warp) 33.5 cm × W. (weft) 15.5 cm (13 3/16 × 6 1/8 in.)

Technique and Material

Weft-loop pile in polychrome wool and undyed linen

Acquisition history

Crocker Collection, San Francisco, Mrs. William Henry Crocker (Ethel Willard Sperry Crocker, 1861–1934); Loaned to the San Francisco Museum of Art until 1953; Gift of Mrs. Andre de Limur (Ethel Mary Crocker de Limur, 1891–1964), Washington, DC, in 1953; Dumbarton Oaks Research Library and Collection, Washington, DC.