Dumbarton Oaks Microsite

Fragment of a Band

 
Accession numberBZ.1953.2.45
Attribution and Date
Egypt, 7th–10th c.
Measurements

H. (weft) 5.7 cm × W. (warp) 16.0 cm (2 1/4 × 6 5/16 in.)

Technique and Material

Plain-weave ground in polychrome wool with brocading in polychrome wool and undyed linen

Acquisition history

Crocker Collection, San Francisco, Mrs. William Henry Crocker (Ethel Willard Sperry Crocker, 1861–1934); Loaned to the San Francisco Museum of Art until 1953; Gift of Mrs. Andre de Limur (Ethel Mary Crocker de Limur, 1891–1964), Washington, DC, in 1953; Dumbarton Oaks Research Library and Collection, Washington, DC.

This rectangular fragment is rendered in plain weave, with decorative details added in brocade. The color scheme consists of beige, red, yellow, blue-green, blue, and purple. At center, the main field is dominated by diagonal lines comprising connected diamonds, an abstractly rendered head, and a T-shaped form filled with abstracted floral motifs. Remnants of a second face appear at left. The upper and lower long edges of the piece consist of a pattern of dots interspersed with squares in blue-green.

This small band likely comes from a tunic, where it would have been incorporated into a larger ground.For discussion about brocade decoration affixed to tunics, see BZ.1953.2.54 and BZ.1953.2.55. The unusual treatment of the wool and the loose spin of the threads gives the piece’s design a particularly textured quality. This texture also contributes to the highly geometric, almost pixelated aspect of the design, which adds to the decorative elements’ abstraction.

—Elizabeth Dospěl Williams, May 2019

 

Notes

Accession numberBZ.1953.2.45
Attribution and Date
Egypt, 7th–10th c.
Measurements

H. (weft) 5.7 cm × W. (warp) 16.0 cm (2 1/4 × 6 5/16 in.)

Technique and Material

Plain-weave ground in polychrome wool with brocading in polychrome wool and undyed linen

Acquisition history

Crocker Collection, San Francisco, Mrs. William Henry Crocker (Ethel Willard Sperry Crocker, 1861–1934); Loaned to the San Francisco Museum of Art until 1953; Gift of Mrs. Andre de Limur (Ethel Mary Crocker de Limur, 1891–1964), Washington, DC, in 1953; Dumbarton Oaks Research Library and Collection, Washington, DC.

D. Thompson, “Catalogue of Textiles in the Dumbarton Oaks Collection” (unpublished catalogue, Washington, DC, 1976), no. 59.

D. Thompson, “The Evolution of Two Traditional Coptic Tape Patterns: Further Observations on the Classification of Coptic Textiles,” JARCE 23 (1986): fig. 5.

Accession numberBZ.1953.2.45
Attribution and Date
Egypt, 7th–10th c.
Measurements

H. (weft) 5.7 cm × W. (warp) 16.0 cm (2 1/4 × 6 5/16 in.)

Technique and Material

Plain-weave ground in polychrome wool with brocading in polychrome wool and undyed linen

Acquisition history

Crocker Collection, San Francisco, Mrs. William Henry Crocker (Ethel Willard Sperry Crocker, 1861–1934); Loaned to the San Francisco Museum of Art until 1953; Gift of Mrs. Andre de Limur (Ethel Mary Crocker de Limur, 1891–1964), Washington, DC, in 1953; Dumbarton Oaks Research Library and Collection, Washington, DC.